March 26, 2013

Sophie Gimbel- Fashioning American Couture

Hand-embellished evening dress with cap sleeves, 1953

"It's all too much, and that's where the loveliness - the couture moment - begins. The clothes are extravagant and unreal, but they don't seem camp. They don't seem artificial or out of this world, just symbolic of a common human hope that the world could be something other than it is - younger and more musical and less exhausting and better lit. It proposed that the little moments of seduction on which, when we look back, so much of our life depends, could unfold as formally as they deserve to, and all dressed up…

Couture is a romantic cartoon. It's a caricature of the romantic impulse, with a cartoon's exaggerations but a cartoon's energy and lighthearted poetry too. The thing you feel in a couture moment isn't 'What a wonderful dress' or, as you do with higher kinds of art, 'What a good place the world is,' but, more simply, 'I'm in love.'" Adam Gopnik from Paris to the Moon. 

Evening dress with pin tucks set into "hand-span", waist, 1952

If you read this blog, then you know that there is a special place in my heart for achingly beautiful things and the craftsmen (and women) and artisans who pour themselves into their creations. And if we’re talking about lovely things, surely couture with its singular vision tops the list. Couture is just breathtaking with its precision, beautifully resolved ideas, sets, lighting, and those fabrics. For the longest time, I couldn’t even begin to explain it. It’s simply what I know. 

And then, the lovely Hannah Rose introduced me to this brilliant quote that made it all make sense…


Evening dress stiffened with horsehair and tulle, 1960
Evening dress in Indian sari fabric, 1963
I relish the opportunity to learn about the art of couture by visiting ateliers and designer studios. When I travel, such visits are always high on my list of priorities. Yet, there’s nothing like indulging my love of couture in my own city. On a cold winter afternoon, the gentleman and I ducked into the Aronson Gallery at Parsons to see Sophie Gimbel Fashioning American Couture. Having the quiet, sun lit gallery all do ourselves was the perfect way to spend a snowy afternoon.

"Harlequinade" velvet/satin dress with net overlays, 1963
Sophie Gimbel’s voice was integral in establishing a distinct fashion identity in the US. During the 1950s and 1960s American department stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue would send their buyers to Paris to have choice styles produced in the US. It always gets me to find a licensed couture copy of an Elsa Schiaparelli or Dior piece for resale. As the head custom designer at Saks' Salon Moderne, Gimbel did away with the established precedent of purchasing exclusive rights to the best couture designs from the Paris collections. At a time when Christian Dior’s New Look dominated American fashion, Sophie Gimbel wasn’t afraid to forge a new identity. This meant designing four hundred unique American styles for Salon Moderne each year. 

Embroidered evening dress with lace scoop neckline, 1957
Mid-century couture, with its shapes, refined elegance, and sculptural volumes is in the midst of a resurgence. Yet it always amazes me that Gimbel’s name, has largely been left out of the narrative. I have a soft spot for female designers (Madame Grès comes to mind) whose legacies have largely lived on in obscurity. A tightly edited exhibition celebrating the many couture construction techniques and methods that Gimbel invented was a fitting homage. 


The use of the finest textiles from India and Italy, soft tailoring, subtle embellishment and meticulous precision left me (for one afternoon at the very least) in heaven. For the simple fact that, for me, a well-constructed and aesthetically beautiful garment starts from the inside. 

* The first image is a personal scan from the exhibition guide. All other images are courtesy of the Aronson Gallery at the Sheila C. Johnson Design Center. 

32 comments:

  1. Thank you for sharing! These are true pieces of art, so beautiful in pictures I can't imagine how delightful it was to attend the exhibit.

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    1. Kali- I'm so glad you enjoyed! That means a lot. Such works of art indeed. It was so delightful to attend. Lately I feel like so many of the smaller exhibits (like this with maybe 20 pieces) have been getting it right. To have the chance to see everything up close (unlike the Met exhibitions) and to be able to intimately relate to things just makes so much sense.

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  2. That is a beautiful quote, I felt just reading this post that the world and the mundane faded away. I love how much you can learn about the world through clothing and textiles. And how lucky you were to be able to go to the exhibition! So glad you're back on the blog too :) xoxox

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    1. Vanisha- Isn't it! I know a lot of fashion /style bloggers question if couture is relevant at all these days. I always feel like it's because of a lack of understanding or experiencing it. That quote sums it up completely.

      You are so right about being able to see the world and where we are culturally and socially through dress. On the one hand it's so superficial and on another it's very much not.

      You are too sweet! I'm glad to be back. I really llove this space too much.

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    2. Vanisha! I completely forgot to add that hearing that this post made the world and the mundane fade away made my day! I would like to think that blogs can do that. Such a lovely compliment.

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    3. I completely felt the same way Vanisha! So poetic and comforting. And Lindsay, its true that with everything else, people's lack of understanding are the reason there is no appreciation for this medium anymore. Didn't even see this post when i was digging your archives, but looks like we have more in common than I first realized! Funny because I use to have all this nonsense about how I live for the sight of beautifully crafted things, and over time my need to conform to non-pretention meant I got rid of all that, but it never changed inside me. We may get judged for appreciating finer things, quality, history, et al, but it simply means we are no longer ignorant :)

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  3. What a wonderful post - so glad to have you back.

    I had never heard of Ms Gimbel until I saw this - what an inspiration. That black and white dress might be my favourite, so modern it could be worn today. I also love the image on the catalogue cover - those cap sleeves are so delightful and the embroidery is exquisite.

    You know my fondness for all things handmade, whether purchased ready-made or created bespoke by a designer or craftsperson. Increasingly I find that that is the way I want to shop - get things made when I can, whether it's delicate jewelry, embroidered silk purses, or cocoon dresses in ikat cotton and silk. It makes the process so much more personal and satisfying. And it forces one to really think about what one needs and wants, instead of buying on impulse.

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    1. Ammu- Thank you! You are too sweet. It's so nice to be back. This little space gives me great joy!

      I'm so glad you enjoyed the post- that means a lot. She was such an inspiration. So modern and elegant. She had such business acumen too. Making Salon Moderne into a social place with fashion shows and designing for her customers needs. I love the black and white dress too. It's so modern and could totally be worn today. It was one of the ones that I kept coming back to at the exhibit in awe. I think the catalogue cover illustrates that silhouette that Ms. Gimbel was so good at- slim through the waist with plenty of swing in the skirt. I agree cap sleeves are just so charming. I wish more designers would do them.

      You're so right about handmade and bespoke things. It's about the process and the journey, which is really special. And it's so true about it requiring careful thought. I've had another bespoke item in my mind for some time, but I haven't been able to reconcile all of the elements.

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  4. Thanks for sharing this - I find women designers extremely interesting, specially the American sportswear pioneers like Bonnie Cashin, Claire McCardell (and later Anne Klein!) so it's interesting to read about a couture designer. Her work looks exquisite and there's something very clean about it even though they're so ornate. That picture from the exhibition shows it off best I think!

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    1. lin- I'm so glad you enjoyed. I agree about women designers- they're fascinating! A few years ago, as part of the Costume Institute's "American Woman" exhibition there was a wonderful exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum- Bonnie Cashin and Claire McCardell featured prominently. The Brooklyn Museum had a wonderful collection of early sportswear that the Met has now acquired.

      You're so right- there's something so precise about her work that's very clean despite the embellishment.

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  5. I feel bad I've never heard of her. Her work is exquisite. You hear sadly so little of American couture. Haute couture is the ultimate "slow wear" available. Hopefully the exhibit will still be there the next time I'm in NYC!

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    1. Joy- I think Ms. Gimbel is truly one of the unsung talents of American design. She was just so clear in her designs and convictions, I love designers that say true to themselves.

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  6. Thank you for sharing, Lindsay! I really know way too little about American designers, and I only recently learned about licensed couture copies. Such a cool aspect of fashion history :) These gowns are absolutely stunning, I especially love the blue one.

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    1. Maja H- I love all these forgot aspects of fashion history! It's really rich. I feel like studying all of these beautiful things makes me notice all of the little details in construction when I curate my wardrobe. The blue dress is so pretty.

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  7. s- Aren't they gorgeous!!! I love a breathtaking dress.

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  8. Hello Lindsay, so glad to see you post! You have been busy, eh?:)
    Thanks for sharing the quote. I can imagine you dazzling in these exquisite dresses.

    These outfits may not have a place in my life but it doesn't stop me from admiring their craftsmanship!

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    1. Eileen- Hi Eileen! Yes, I've been terribly busy lately. It's been good, exhausting and inspiring all at the same time.

      Aww... You are too kind. That's exactly it. I think my love of craftsmanship and technique guides my wardrobe choices whether it's something exquisite or something very simple. I think that's what makes it hard for me to shop too. There is a lot out there but so little of it is well thought out, meticulous and truly stirs the soul.

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  9. Lindsay, I have missed reading your posts. This is so lovely. Never heard of Gimbel until you mentioned it. Beautiful.

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    1. Iche- Thank you! That's so incredibly sweet. I've certainly missed having a space to share my thoughts on all things sartorial.

      Beautiful is exactly right.

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  11. Hi Lindsay, I'm so pleased you're back to blogging again. I've missed your marvelous posts! Over the past 12 months, I've started to take more notice of clothes, I mean, couture or high end clothes, thanks to your influence and a couple of other bloggers. A friend dragged me to an evening gown exhibition at the V&A museum filled with beautiful vintage dresses by Madame Gres, Givenchy, Christian Dior etc. It was an eye opening experience.

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    1. Aww... Thanks Marlene. That's so sweet.

      The V&A exhibit looks amazing. I've been waiting for it to open for so long. Madame Gres is amazing. Such vigorous and elegant designs and so modern. She's one of my favorites for sure. Such a treat that you got to go.

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  12. What beautiful dresses! :) The last embroidered blue lace one is really stunning.

    Thanks for your comment on my blog - I'm really very happy with the Rocco bag, It's heavy, but not as heavy as I worried it would be and light enough so that I can use it frequently :)

    Away From Blue

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    1. Mica- So beautiful. Little works of art, I think.

      So glad to hear that your bag is working out so well. I've always wondered about the weight- that's fantastic that it is light!

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  13. So many beautiful gowns, truly exquisite!
    And yay, so happy about the new post ^^

    Hayfa
    http://chic-and-cliche.blogspot.com/
    http://twitter.com/HayfaMk

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    1. Chic and Cliché- Hayfa- You are so sweet- thank you.

      They are exquisite. Such gorgeous details without being fussy. I was amazed.

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  14. I had never heard of Sophie Gimbel before your post so thanks for the discovery. Her work is astonishing, she certainly belongs to couture.
    I often visit fashion exhibitions and can spend hours looking and marvelling over the rich, unique details, combination mastered by genius minds like Schiaparelli, Grès, Lanvin.

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    1. Aïssa- She's simply amazing. The vigor with which she designed boggles the mind.

      Love well thought out fashion exhibitions. Schiaparelli, Grès, Lanvin were all so ahead of their time.

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  15. Love this! I love learning more about female designers. I think this whole post is beautiful: words and gowns!

    Kate from Clear the Way

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    1. cleartheway- Thanks Kate!

      I completely agree about female designers.

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  16. The first dress is by far my favorite. Oh to dream of wearing that ....out....somewhere...the theatre maybe? Ok I have zero places to wear this dress even if I had it but it is lovely!

    Poppie
    http://thepoppie.com

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    1. Tyne Swedish- So beautiful! I know exactly what you mean.I love dressing up for the theatre and ballet.

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