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The Givenchy Atelier (Fall/Winter 2011 Couture) |
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Dior Avenue Montaigne Headquarters |
One of the most delightful aspects of this blog is that it affords me the opportunity to share my love of craftsmanship, connoisseurship and style with such lovely readers. I have tremendous admiration for the artisans, whose vision and talents are the backbone of the storied fashion ateliers I love. It goes unmentioned that tailors, embroiderers, and pattern makers often spend their entire careers at one house. Last weekend
LVMH lifted the curtain on more than 25 of its facilities throughout Europe for the inaugural edition of its
Les Journées Particulières initiative. Les Journées Particulières focused on fashion, perfumes, cosmetics wines and spirits.
The initiative provided visitors with a variety of experiences that highlighted each brand's expertise and allowed artisans to demonstrate their skills. The Louis Vuitton ateliers in Asnières, Palazzo Fendi, Givenchy's haute couture salon and the Salon de Prestige (where Christian Dior use to present his collections) at Dior's Avenue Montaigne headquarters were a few of the sites visitors were able to tour. These facilities are usually closed to the public. One of my biggest frustrations with fashion is that few understand how labor intensive it is to produce luxury goods. LVMH is attempting to engage the public. It's nice to see such a rarefied world unveiled.
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Dior Avenue Montaigne Headquarters |
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Dior Avenue Montaigne Headquarters |
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Tailors at work at Dior |
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At the Givenchy atelier, artisans walked visitors through the process of pattern making, embroidery, drapery and lace application. The embroiderers at Dior spoke to heavily embroidered dresses taking 250-300 hours to complete. I'll never forget when I heard Prabal Guring speak about how his experience at Bill Blass was invaluable because of the access he had to pattern makers and artisans. An independent designer simply doesn't have these sorts of resources. I'm looking forward to the expansion of LVMH's initiative. I hope that other luxury groups consider doing something similar.
PS- The tuxedo just turned 150! How could I not include a picture.
*** All images courtesy of Les Journées Particulières***
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What a wonderful thing it must be to get to peek inside that world! That´s one of the reasons why I love fashion documentaries so much - that they often give an insight into the amount of people and work that goes into these kinds of products and garments. Most of the time the focus is on the designer at the top of the hierarchy, so it is very cool to get to see what what goes on "behind the curtain" :)
ReplyDeleteCrafts such as tailoring, shoemaking and watchmaking are so rare nowadays and it's such a shame; in my home town I often walk past deserted ateliers that have been standing with their blinds pulled down for years, it almost makes one want to cry. You're experience must have been lovely, thank you for sharing!
ReplyDeleteMaja Piraja- I love the idea of exposing more people the “art of fashion.” There are a lot of downsides to large conglomerates, but I think LVMH is onto something here. I agree with you on fashion documentaries. When they are done correctly there is so much that can be learned from them. I’m always a bit disappointed when a documentary only focuses on the designer as a celebrity of sorts and not the artisans. I appreciate seeing the production.
ReplyDeleteFlorina- I agree with you on tailoring, shoemaking and watchmaking. It’s becoming such a lost art. I think it’s truly amazing to watch people who have these skills work. I know what you mean about deserted ateliers- it really is sad.
Wonderful post. One of my favourite editorials in US Vogue involved portraits of designers with the staff at their ateliers. I love getting a peek into the work of craftsmen and women in india. I remember going into the workshop of a weaver in the ancient city of benares in india and watching him create the most gorgeous paisley silk fabric. I still have the magenta and gold stole my father bought for me from this craftsman. Magic hands indeed.
ReplyDeleteAmmu- Thank you! I remember this editorial in US Vogue- it was so well done. I like when a designer isn't afraid to let seamstresses and artisans shine. I always enjoy a visit to a designer's atelier because it's so fascinating to see the construction that goes into these garments. I also find that designers are so welcoming when you show an interest in how items are made.
ReplyDeleteA magenta and gold stole sounds beautiful. Weaving is such a skill/art. It's so fun amazing to watch. I used to have a small loom and it would take forever to weave a small section. I can't imagine the precision and patience this takes. So magical.
Oh were you there last week end then? I was, on the saturday and really it was like.. a kind of fairy tale! And all was so neat so serious, nothing to do with machinery.
ReplyDeleteThat was true art of craftmanship (sorry do I write it wright?).
I would like so much to have the same kind of experience with Hermes, to see how those people are working.
eveange66- I didn't get to go, but I go to designers studios frequently and have seen these sorts of presentations before. I would have loved to see the jewelry making. Which houses did you end up going to? I can't wait till the next one.
ReplyDeleteHermes should do this too. I think a lot of people would have a greater appreciation for the products (and the wait to acquire items) if they saw how everything is made by hand.
really amazing! we love all items!
ReplyDeleteMuch love from the SABO SKIRT girls!
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My favorite detail is the Dior lab coats the tailors are wearing. I would love to wear one in my lab!
ReplyDeleteI think I am in Love.. Those dresses are wonderful, gorgeous, and even more..
ReplyDeletexx
.sabo skirt.- So amazing. I love EVERYTHING too.
ReplyDeleteAnna- I love the Dior lab coats. I never thought a lab coat could be so chic. I also love how intently focused they are.
Camille S.- Me too! These dresses are little works of art. Breathtaking.