September 15, 2012

Hermès Festival Des Métiers- A Labor of Love





Sometimes it takes me 10 hours to make one jacket, one skirt. The fact that you are touching something yourself brings emotion to it. I was watching a chef on television and he took a lemon and squeezed it with his hand. He said that he could do it with a machine, but he felt that if he did it with his own hand the person eating the salad would be able to taste what he put into it. I put all of me into my work. This is all I have: I don't have kids; I don't have a family that I created. But I feel that every day I create a new family. My life in that sense is complete.” Alber Elbaz

What better way to kick off one of my favorite weeks of the year (honestly, Fashion Week is my Christmas) than with the debut of Hermès’ Festival Des Métiers- a celebration in honor of the 175th anniversary of the house. Festival Des Métiers kicked off in New York and will travel to a few US cities this September. The exhibition was a luxury arts and crafts show with all of the expected elegance. Similar to this lovely exhibit, Festival Des Métiers showcased the expertise of the artisans behind the brand. Over four days, ten artisans from France demonstrated their craft.

From saddles to riding boots (sigh) no one does equestrian chic better.

I gravitate to brands and designers who pour everything into what they create. Upon walking into 583 Park, (which I still associate as the glamorous home of many an Oscar de la Renta show) I was reminded of the above Alber Elbaz quote. As elusive as it is, I’m always looking for brands where you can feel the emotion that went into creating. That’s what I love about bespoke items and one of the things that come to mind when I think of Hermès.  

I watched as a saddlemaker hand stitched the seams on a beautiful saddle. Jewelry is incredibly special to me; so I relished the chance to observe diamonds on a Collier de Chien being pavéd. The artisans were so kind and humble as they answered questions. I can’t begin to describe the sheer joy on all of the artisan’s faces when asked if they loved what they do. There’s nothing more inspiring than seeing someone who is passionate about what they do.

Engraver Nadine Rabilloud's desk where a drawing is turned into a silk screen. This scarf has 46 different colors, which means 46 silk screens will be made.

A tiny piece of the silk scarf workshop in Lyon was brought to New York. It’s a two-year process from start to finish to design a scarf. The scarf begins with a drawing and is turned into a silk screen. Engraver Nadine Rabilloud demonstrated how she takes a drawing and meticulously turns it into screens. Each color that appears on a scarf has its own screen. The average scarf has thirty colors, but the maximum is forty-six. There are currently 75,000 colors in Hermès’ archive. The screens are printed darker color to light color and bigger motif to smaller motif. It was amazing to watch silk printer Henri Lely methodically print a scarf from start to finish. 

The very first screen printed. Even when mistakes are made (we noticed a small black spot on an early screen)  all screens are printed. Quality control comes later in the process and anything not up to standard is destroyed. Many measures are in place to produce the best product. Dyes are discarded after a week. Fabrics and dyes are stored in climate controlled rooms. Silk has to be stored away from humidity.
The completed scarf.
A small detail.

Once the scarves are printed they are steamed to set the dye. The steaming process makes silk stiff, so the scarves are washed with water and olive oil soap to soften the silk. The scarves are then hemmed, which takes forty-five minutes per scarf- a true labor of love.


More beautiful scarves. Silks are sourced from Brazil.
A craftsman carefully selects a piece of leather without any flaws to cut the front of the bag. It's a puzzle that the craftsman assembles. Since the artisan is working with a soft, pebbly skin the bag is made inside out and turned right side out at the end of the process. Flipping the bag takes great skill.

The highlight of my evening was meeting Pierre who was working on a Kelly bag. The Kelly is my favorite Hermès bag and the hardest to make. Fitting the pieces together is likened to a puzzle. Pierre estimated that this bag would take twenty-five hours to complete. After ten years as a Hermès artisan, Pierre pointed out that that the handle is still the most difficult part. The handle takes four hours to make. The average novice artisan makes ten handles before they’re skilled at it. Beauty aside, I enjoyed hearing that Pierre fell into his passion. He studied marketing at university. Without any formal leather training, a friend urged Pierre to apply to leather school.

The brand's signature stitch calls for many tools- a griffe (a tool that imprints pinpricks), a tool that pokes tiny holes and durable linen thread.

 Hermès’ Festival Des Métiers was a true celebration of craft, skill and precision. 

*All photos are my personal photos.

36 comments:

  1. I love that Alber Elbaz quote.. and I agree, there is nothing quite like buying a piece of art that has been carefully and lovingly made.

    Had the privilege of watching these artisans in action earlier this year, and it was such a joy to see them working on the items I've come to love. So much appreciation for the time, effort and passion they put into each piece.

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    1. wandrrlust.org- Such a wonderful quote. When I think of people who are designing little works of art that are made Alber Elbaz tops the list.

      I too consider it such a privilege to see these artisans at work. Lucky you that you got to see it. They truly enjoy what they do and take such time and care making things. So awe inspiring!

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  2. What a wonderful experience. And those colors are just fabulous. Those pinks are so vibrant. I hope you had a great weekend Lindsay xoxox

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    1. Vanisha- Such a wonderful experience. I could have watched the artisan all day.

      The pinks are so vibrant and cheerful. It's so funny that color can put you in such an upbeat mood.

      I had a lovely weekend! I hope your weekend was glorious as well:)

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  3. What a privilege to observe these artisans at work! And your photographs are lovely, the colours look so saturated.
    I think the human touch is key to my experience of shopping, and amid all the advertorial one sees online and offline, it's a huge distinguishing factor. I feel fortunate to interact closely with the people who make my clothes in Delhi, and am blown away by their focus on getting a dress to fit you perfectly. More and more, I feel like it's the way I want to shop. Novelty gets less and less exciting to me as I get older and now I am reaching the point where I am quite happy to stick to a few studios and stores I trust, where good service and attention to detail is paramount.
    Wasn't that a wonderful interview with Alber Elbaz? He seems like the sweetest man.

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    1. Ammu- Thank you! Such a privilege, indeed! I'm glad my pictures were able to capture a bit of the magic. I'm a perfectionist, so I love watching others who value that. The human touch really makes all of the difference for me too when it comes to shopping. You are so lucky to have such access to skilled craftsmen and women! I love how much pride they have in their work and such attention to details that few would even notice. I'm so drawn to having items made for the fit alone- I can't get enough.

      Such a wonderful read (I have a post in my head on this). Such a lovely and humble man.

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  4. Lindsay, such a lovely post. I think they are coming to San Francisco and I can't wait to see it.

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    1. iche- Thank you! They are coming to San Francisco. I can't wait to hear your thoughts!

      I owe you an email- so sorry!!! Will reach out soon!

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    2. Lindsay-thank you for the reply. I really appreciate you remembering my email. :) I know you must be busy. I enjoyed your blog very much. I feel that I learn something.

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    3. iche- Yes, I always remember my emails. Unfortunately between work and personal email blog email gets seriously backed up. But I do respond and read EVERYTHING. It means a lot to me when readers reach out.

      Thank you for your sweet words on my blog. Having people say that they enjoy reading or that they learn something really makes me happy.

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  5. This is such an interesting post, Lindsay! Hermès is one of those brands that is so completely and utterly out of reach for me, but that I appreciate from afar just the same. Astronomic price tags aside it is so comforting to see a business taking real pride in craftsmanship. I read the book "Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster" recently, and Hermès seemed to stand out as one of the few real heritage luxury brands that we have left. And wow, an average of thirty rounds of silk screening? That is amazing!

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    1. Maja H- I'm so glad to hear that you enjoyed this post. It's interesting because even if something isn't your style or taste at Hermès, you can really appreciate all of the hard work & skill that goes in. Oh don't get me started about the price tags and the increases! Eek!

      "Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster" is on my "to read" list. How was it? Can't wait to read it.

      The silk screening was such an amazing process to watch.

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    2. "Deluxe" was an interesting read, both in terms of the different brand histories and industry politics, not to mention pricing and production. Very enlightening, at least for someone like me who isn't "inside" the industry :)

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    3. Maja H- I can't wait to read it. I love learning about brand histories and all that goes into pricing and production. So much politics indeed!

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  6. Hello Lindsay, what a wonderful experience of seeing these craftsman at work. Thanks for sharing this bit of magic on your blog! If I have another life to lead, I would love to be a Chanel artisan...lol

    Hermes is not within my reach but the closest I am to a bit of that magic is my anniversary reissue from 2005. In those days, they still make beautiful flaps before the downturn seen in 2008.

    I love that quote by Elbaz too!

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    1. Eileen- Hi Eileen! Hope you had a great weekend!

      Such a magical experience. I love watching people work. Especially without the aid of machines. I know exactly what you mean. I dream about the Chanel archive.

      The reissues are really something special. I have attended events where I got to see little glimpses of the behind the scenes at Chanel- heaven! I love how loyal the artisans behind the scenes at Chanel are- they've been there for years.

      That quote is such a gem!

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  7. One of my dream purchases is a Hermès 90 or 70cm Carré, so I'm so glad that you posted these photos of the Hermès Festival Des Métiers in New York. It's amazing what those craftsmen do.

    I have a lot respect for items that are handcrafted or have a history.Maybe because I'm a history buff, but your connection to the clothes seems more tangible. You know that somebody spent countless hours honing their craft in order to spent more hours just making one item. One has to admire that kind of dedication.

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    1. T.A.E- A Hermès 90 or 70cm Carré is the perfect addition to any wardrobe and so timeless.

      I love items that are handcrafted and totally agree about items with history. I think it's impossible for me not to think about history and art when I think about fashion and design. Design always seems much richer when these things are thoughtfully considered. I think it's always a challenge to take those connections and write about them in a tangible way.

      It's so true about honing your craft. It's so undervalued in our society and such a beautiful thing.

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  8. Love, love, LOVE your blog. Such a wonderful mix of captivating writing and a real appreciation of history, fashion, design etc. Always interesting and a charming read. I like that it's not simply this is what I wore, bought, purchased, but it's a smart read. Of course I like the outfits too because you have wonderful taste. I enjoyed how carefully considered your post was.

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    1. Anonymous- Thank you! I think everyone has to find the right balance. It's also really important to constantly challenge yourself in all areas. Personally, I love mixing things up- there's just so much when it comes to style that I'm passionate about.

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    1. Coco Draws- I think that's the only way to describe- simply amazing. I'm in awe of their skill set:)

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  10. Hermes is still my first love when it comes to handbags, scarves and costume jewelry. Like you, the Kelly is my favorite bag. It's the one bag that I'll consider buying in different colors and sizes. Thank you so much for sharing, Lindsay. I hope the exhibition arrives in the UK at some point in time.

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    1. Chocolate, Cookies & Candies- I hope that the exhibit comes to you too. I remember when "Leather Forever" came to you. So wonderful and exciting. I'm sure it will come. I like that they are making the effort to have people actually learn about what they do.

      The bags, scarves and costume jewelry are divine. I totally agree about the Kelly. I've come to realize that everything else I can take or leave.

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  11. Thanks for all the insightful notes. I really admire what Hermes tries to continue to do in a day and age where it's so easy sell out and take the cheap route. Just wonderful.

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    1. Joy- I'm glad you enjoyed reading. You said it perfectly. I really admire what they do. Sure, there's plenty that isn't really for me (or that I could see myself loving 20 years from now) but it's still really inspirational.

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  12. this is such a wonderful post that illuminates why Hermes has that bit of magic that is increasingly rare in our mass-produced luxury world. this makes me appreciate my already much-beloved vintage Kelly that much more!

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    1. miss sophie- Thank you! That's exactly it. I think every wardrobe needs a few magical items that pull at the heart strings. There's a special place for one of a kind items and items that aren't mass produced. It definitely adds to the appreciation to see first hand how items are made.

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  13. indeed beautiful pieces...

    www.azrakunworld.com

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    1. Azrakun- So beauty! Ther just isn't a way to describe;)

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  14. What girl wouldn't want a bag from Hermes :)?

    P.S. Enter my awesome giveaway http://drastic-plastic-fantastic-plastic.blogspot.ro/2012/09/littleblackdress-giveaway.html

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    1. Tereza {Drastic Plastic}- Exactly! Shoes and bags are my weakness;)

      Can't wait to have a look at your giveaway. How fun!

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  15. LOVE your blog!

    What a treat to see the craftsmanship up close! beautiful pics, Elle x

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    1. Elle- Thank you! That made my day! We share the love for Hermes;)

      It was such a treat to see the craftsmanship. I'm loved the little glimpse in.

      I adore your blog as well. Can't wait to catch up on the archives;)

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  16. Thank you for sharing this Lindsay! First, the Alber Elbaz quote is so inspiring. How beautiful {and somewhat rare} to have so much passion about a creation. And what an honor to meet Pierre! I wonder if he knows how much of a "celebrity" he is in the Hermes handbag world! Wonderful pictures and writing!

    xo, sam

    **Style of Sam**

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    1. Samantha- Thanks Sam! I'm so glad you enjoyed this post. I love that Alber Elbaz quote- so inspiring. Such a passionate creative individual. Yes, Pierre is such a celebrity but so humble. First met him at Madison Ave store- such a sweetheart.

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