New York Fashion Week- Chadwick Bell

Run of Show

KAMILA- Formula One Red Felted Wool Coat 

FATIMA- Cerulean Blue Trapunto Jersey Tee, Jade Trapunto Hem Jersey Slim Skirt 

FATIMA- Saigon Rose Printed Georgette Draped Shoulder Dress

MARIA- Midnight Wool and Silk Tucked Bodice Long Sleeve Dress and KAMILA- Black Wool Silk and Midnight Velvet Tux Dress 

As promised, here are a few images from the first show I attended this season at Lincoln Center. If there’s one thing to be said about the New York collections, it is that they are incredibly well produced. It’s always fascinating to see friends come to the collections for the first time with the belief that “New York is so commercial” only to have a more nuanced opinion by the week’s end. There’s a unique feel and perspective to each of the fashion weeks that’s valuable to our understanding of style in the larger sociopolitical context. 

Each season, there are a few shows that intrigue. For me, The Chadwick Bell show was one of those shows. There’s something refreshing about seeing a designer take that critical next step. From the moment my invitation arrived, I was anticipating attending this show for its craftsmanship. There’s a consistency to Chadwick Bell’s work, and a precision that I find compelling. Careful attention is paid to tailoring and fit, which so many designers are overlooking. The Autumn/Winter 2012 show did not disappoint. 

The show was titled Midnight Rose, and a previous engagement prevented me from attending the preview so, I had no preconceived notions of what to expect. The disclaimer on the wall notifying attendees that scent would be used during the show set the mood and trend for the week. The olfactory branding company 12.29 developed a subtle scent that brought incense, smoke and spice to mind. It’s remarkable how powerful scent is and the emotional responses it can evoke. This collection; was about romance and danger colliding. From the show’s notes, “She is a perfect woman in an imperfect situation. Her look is polished, rich, and refined, but she is dangerous.” While the clothes are demure, they evoked a sense of mystery and seduction.

There’s a duality to the Chadwick Bell woman that seems very real. There’s a clear tension between; masculine and feminine, embellishment and utilitarian, our perceived notion of power and vulnerability. These clothes are incredibly luxurious utilizing fur, feathers, leather gold jacquards and wonderful brocades. The fabrics and embroidery are superb. 

There are some obvious standouts for me: 

• The long gloves by Carolina Amato (I’m having a Lanvin long glove moment, as of late). 
• The cocodrillo jacquard and melton wool coat with matador embroidery (look 26) that feels like a modern take on the breathtaking riding ensembles I saw here. 
• The timeless tux re-imagined. (look 27)
• Casting by the brilliant Bethann Hardison, who always puts together a multicultural cast of models who bring such personality to the runway
• Hair that takes inspiration from falling asleep in a cab. I’m guilty of this when exhausted. 

What stood out most is the notion of beauty in imperfection. Who doesn’t need to be reminded that imperfections are so beautiful? 

* PS- A warm thank you to Jackie Smith at UFCG