New York Fashion Week- Chadwick Bell

Run of Show

KAMILA- Formula One Red Felted Wool Coat 

FATIMA- Cerulean Blue Trapunto Jersey Tee, Jade Trapunto Hem Jersey Slim Skirt 

FATIMA- Saigon Rose Printed Georgette Draped Shoulder Dress

MARIA- Midnight Wool and Silk Tucked Bodice Long Sleeve Dress and KAMILA- Black Wool Silk and Midnight Velvet Tux Dress 

As promised, here are a few images from the first show I attended this season at Lincoln Center. If there’s one thing to be said about the New York collections, it is that they are incredibly well produced. It’s always fascinating to see friends come to the collections for the first time with the belief that “New York is so commercial” only to have a more nuanced opinion by the week’s end. There’s a unique feel and perspective to each of the fashion weeks that’s valuable to our understanding of style in the larger sociopolitical context. 

Each season, there are a few shows that intrigue. For me, The Chadwick Bell show was one of those shows. There’s something refreshing about seeing a designer take that critical next step. From the moment my invitation arrived, I was anticipating attending this show for its craftsmanship. There’s a consistency to Chadwick Bell’s work, and a precision that I find compelling. Careful attention is paid to tailoring and fit, which so many designers are overlooking. The Autumn/Winter 2012 show did not disappoint. 

The show was titled Midnight Rose, and a previous engagement prevented me from attending the preview so, I had no preconceived notions of what to expect. The disclaimer on the wall notifying attendees that scent would be used during the show set the mood and trend for the week. The olfactory branding company 12.29 developed a subtle scent that brought incense, smoke and spice to mind. It’s remarkable how powerful scent is and the emotional responses it can evoke. This collection; was about romance and danger colliding. From the show’s notes, “She is a perfect woman in an imperfect situation. Her look is polished, rich, and refined, but she is dangerous.” While the clothes are demure, they evoked a sense of mystery and seduction.

There’s a duality to the Chadwick Bell woman that seems very real. There’s a clear tension between; masculine and feminine, embellishment and utilitarian, our perceived notion of power and vulnerability. These clothes are incredibly luxurious utilizing fur, feathers, leather gold jacquards and wonderful brocades. The fabrics and embroidery are superb. 

There are some obvious standouts for me: 

• The long gloves by Carolina Amato (I’m having a Lanvin long glove moment, as of late). 
• The cocodrillo jacquard and melton wool coat with matador embroidery (look 26) that feels like a modern take on the breathtaking riding ensembles I saw here. 
• The timeless tux re-imagined. (look 27)
• Casting by the brilliant Bethann Hardison, who always puts together a multicultural cast of models who bring such personality to the runway
• Hair that takes inspiration from falling asleep in a cab. I’m guilty of this when exhausted. 

What stood out most is the notion of beauty in imperfection. Who doesn’t need to be reminded that imperfections are so beautiful? 

* PS- A warm thank you to Jackie Smith at UFCG 

New York Fashion Week- An Introduction

Courtesy of OscarPRGirl

Thank you to everyone who emailed, tweeted and left comments on this blog letting me know that you couldn’t wait to hear my thoughts on New York Fashion Week. I read each and every comment and never would have imagined there would be readers awaiting my views. I’m truly humbled.

I’m always torn about how to approach Fashion Week here. As you all know, I’m most concerned with carefully considered design. I’ve been attending the collections for years and that experience has shaped my very precise sense of style. The collections really teach you to admire workmanship or gorgeous fabrics that are custom made in house  from a far without the need to consume.

Perhaps Sally Singer said it best; “People who are interested in style -- designers, stylists or the girl or boy on the street -- get an idea and fixate on it, and for their whole lives, that's their ideal…. Yet every season, there's a way to connect your personal aesthetic with something new. You intuitively think, ‘I want something new that updates who I am, but at the end of the day I'm still myself.’" I can’t wait to share the subtleties that will inevitably make their way into my autumn wardrobe.

As for my week, all I can say is PHEW. This coming from a girl who regularly gets a little under four hours of sleep a night. Every season there are more shows. In previous years, I’ve been hesitant to say that there are too many shows; but this season hit an all time high. I can’t help but wonder if some amazing stories have been lost in so many presentations and shows…

Style + Identity

Courtesy of Nothing Less Than Perfect Tumblr and Residence Magazine 

“It’s easy to feel like you’ve got nothing to wear, but it’s also a signal of identity problems. If you’ve got a well-developed sense of identity, you tend to know what’s you no matter what the trends. Nothing I buy ever looks new, because I have my look down, and it’s classic.” Anjelica Huston (Harper’s Bazaar, September 2006)

One of the most rewarding aspects of blogging is being reunited with a quote or photograph that you’ve long forgotten. Truthfully, I haven’t picked up an issue of Harper’s Bazaar in years, but the lovely Catssaymeow reminded me of the aforementioned quote. I rarely identify with celebrity style; (I simply don’t need to see something worn convincingly to be inspired), but this quote is dead on; with how I approach style.

It’s refreshing to be able to pull items blindly from my closet (in the wee hours of the morning no less), knowing that everything works seamlessly with one another and is intrinsically me. In my mind there’s no greater simplicity.  It’s interesting to see my choices become more resolute and precise with time. Even when I add new items to my wardrobe, they look like they’ve always belonged.

Hope you are all having a productive week. Tomorrow kicks off New York Fashion Week and I’m headed to the shows. No, “I have nothing to wear” moments here, I’m just going as myself.

A Bit of Nostalgia

Illustrated by Jean-Philippe Delhomme

From left: Bridget Foley (Women's Wear Daily), Cathy Horyn (The New York Times), Hilary Alexander (The Daily Telegraph), Suzy Menkes (International Herald Tribune), Guy Trebay (The New York Times) and Robin Givhan (Newsweek/The Daily Beast) 

Hope everyone is having a good week. September flew by and there's so much to update you all on. September truly is one of my favorite months- there's that back to school feeling (regardless of whether you're in school), the idea of starting anew, and of course, New York Fashion Week. Needless to say, September will always be the start of the new year for me. But back to fashion week. There's so much attention placed on the collections that  it can be difficult to put looks into context. 

I think Scott Schuman said it best, "shows aren't something that should make you feel bad about not being able to afford what you're seeing, or not looking like a model. Instead, they should just be pure inspiration for color, silhouette, genre, pattern matching..." When I attend a show and begin to think about it on a personal level, these are the things I consider. The collections are a means of getting inspired in the same way that literature, fine art, New York and ballet inspire me. 

Which brings me to another point- I miss the dying art of fashion criticism. There's something about reading an insightful review of a show. There's a piece of me that feels nostalgic for a review where the writer has had a chance to do a studio visit after the show. It's implausible to think that the majority of writers today are reviewing collections without having the chance to look at the construction up close and feel the clothes. True fashion criticism puts clothing into a larger context. A good review speaks to history, culture, the economy and mores of a society.

PS- We all know I adore a good fashion illustration and Jean-Philippe Delhomme's are simply divine. 

Happy Fashion Week!

Via The Coveteur

Happy Fashion Week, lovelies! Or shall I say Happy Fashion Month? My week was expectantly busy with lots of running around the city (in heels no less), but I wouldn't have it any other way. Seeing all of the hard work that goes into every aspect of a show makes me appreciate designer clothing even more. I kicked off New York Fashion Week at a fete in celebration of Aesop's Nolita store. More on this soon, but Aesop is a welcome addition to one of my favorite shopping districts. I can't think of a better way to spend the eve of Fashion Week. 

This image from Britt Aboutaleb's shoot for The Coveteur has been saved in my inspiration folder for months. I've been meaning to frame a few special Fashion Week and party invites for some time. The Coveteur provides endless inspiration, but I love how Britt framed the invites from her first season of Paris Fashion Week shows. At the time she was covering the collections for Teen Vogue and Fashionista and was unsure that this amazing opportunity would present itself again. I find this endearing in an age and industry where people feel so entitled. There's nothing more stylish than having grace. 

Grace is the tipping point for me. It's such an integral part of having style and yet in the midst of Fashion Week it's easily forgotten. When everyones' nerves are taxed it never hurts to be the girl with the welcoming smile or the person who takes things in stride. After all there's a whole team of people who pour everything they have into these shows. 

Hair Inspiration- NYFW Edition

Perhaps it's the years of competitive gymnastics and dance where my hair always had to be neatly pulled back, but I adore chignons and buns. The oversized bun held tightly with bobby pins is part of my signature style. Nothing seems more chic to me. 

When Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Francisco Costa et al ushered in the era of new minimalism and fashion people swooned, I panicked. Clothes that rely on precision of cut, clean lines and restraint instead of overt luxury lend themselves to buns and sleek ponytails. The bun might be having a resurgence, but it suits me. Regardless of popularity, we should all wear what suits us. 

While I agonize over what collections I like and what  I will embrace next season, I know right away when I see hair inspiration. Here is a little fashion inspiration from the recent New York Fall 2011 shows. 

1) Donna Karan

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I adore the high bun. It's ladylike and elegant and yet hairstylist Eugene Souleiman managed to somehow make the girls look a bit edgy too.

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2) Carolina Herrera 

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Hair rolls, reversed buns, and the low bun are equally sophisticated. Orlando Pita can do no wrong. 

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3) Thakoon

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Sometimes you just have to have fun. The hair complimented the collection, music and general feel of the show. Refined and elegant, but spontaneous. Thakoon was inspired by the Masai and street style.

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It might not be 'wearable' but it certainly is something I might have to try the next time I'm suffering from insomnia.

A Girl After My Heart...

Yurman and Bourbon Tumblr

The touch of fur. The tiny Chanel bag messengered just so. Lots of black, black and more black... Sartorially speaking this could be my child.

If there is one thing you learn to appreciate during fashion week, it is that style is ageless.

Happy New York Fashion Week! 

PS- The sweet little girl is Alexander Wang's niece. So precious and chic!