Absurdity

Courtesy of This is Glamorous

One thing noticeably absent this Fashion Month, was manners. We are all, works in progress, but good manners are synonymous with elegance. There's nothing more sophisticated than grace and good manners. So you can imagine my dismay with people traipsing across the runway to get to their seat, or holding up tablets to take photos. The Business of Fashion  tweeted about the loss of all decorum at the various fashion weeks. There are unspoken rules that forbid standing on the runway or obscuring one's view. The majority of fashion week attendees have been going to shows for years and know better. 

I couldn't help but notice the trend of grooming oneself in public. Not just grooming, but making sure that you put on a show of touching up your makeup in front of the watchful eye of the street style photographers. I'm not talking about swiping on a little lip gloss. I'm talking about red lipstick and eye liner; makeup that requires a mirror and precision to apply. Not to mention the nail clipper, who was clipping away behind me one morning. Those who follow me on twitter know I was pretty grossed out, with the nail maintenance going on as I waited in line. 

Don't get me wrong, I love a good beauty routine, but I firmly believe that personal grooming should be done in private. If I'm in a public place, then I find a restroom to check-up, touch up, reapply, etc. Away from all the glitter of the shows, we're all so busy, and sometimes it's tempting to primp in public. At fashion week there are many places to freshen up without taking personal grooming to the street. I think we can all agree that nail clipping in public is absurd, but how much grooming is too much in public?

PS- While I was searching for a business card case I stumbled upon this Smythson of Bond Street cosmetics case and beauty pouch. Each year, one of the charities which I'm involved with, auctions this off. I think I have my eye on it this year. 

Dries, Dries, Dries

What better way for the Paris shows to commence than with a show which was strongly influenced by mid century couture. Dries Van Noten was particularly intent on exploring the architectural shapes of Spanish and Italian couture during the fifties and sixties. The phenomenal Balenciaga exhibit (I know I can't stop talking about it) at the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute instantly came to mind from the opening look. I was hoping someone would use the Balenciaga exhibit as a starting point for their Spring/Summer 2012 collection. When prompted on drawing inspiration from couture, Dries Van Noten mentioned that "it's always about elegance and beauty." It's refreshing to see a collection that's academic and intellectual. One can only imagine the library research that went into this collection. Have I told you all how much I LOVE libraries?

The Balenciaga exhibit is an interesting starting point. The collections haven't offered sweeping changes or a new silhouette, which is fitting given our troubled global economy. The couture influence speaks to the larger questions of what luxury means today. The silhouettes are undeniably couture shapes, but in fabrics typically reserved for ready-to-wear. Imagine my excitement when I saw jackets that are fitted at the front with more drape and volume at the back. The peplums, size of the sleeves, slim trousers, inlaid shoulders, lace, and jackets that skim the wrist are all fifties Balenciaga references. Not to mention the Spanish embroidery on the toreador jackets- pure craftsmanship and workmanship. 

We all know Van Noten can do prints, but it's inspiring to see a designer who isn't afraid to challenge himself. The technical precision; cutting, draping and attention to line demonstrate that Van Noten is a true couturier. These shapes are complicated and sophisticated which requires precise tailoring. Juxtapositions are key aspects of Van Noten's work and the prints digress from the high fashion silhouettes. The prints don't feel as sophisticated or as high fashion to me as they have been in previous seasons. I have a lot of respect for the collaborative process that went into these prints, but personally I prefer a stylized and perhaps more "high fashion" print. 

A lot of designers have been flirting with ladylike style, elegance and refinement, but Dries Van Noten managed to do it in a wearable way that doesn't look kitsch. This collection is chic and grown up, which I always welcome. Can you guess which items I have my eye on?

You can view the complete collection here. 

PS- I love the last minute decision to do simple pulled back hair and natural makeup. Clothes this pretty don't need overly stylized hair and makeup. 

Credit- Image 5- The New York Times. All other images are from Vogue.com.

A Bit of Nostalgia

Illustrated by Jean-Philippe Delhomme

From left: Bridget Foley (Women's Wear Daily), Cathy Horyn (The New York Times), Hilary Alexander (The Daily Telegraph), Suzy Menkes (International Herald Tribune), Guy Trebay (The New York Times) and Robin Givhan (Newsweek/The Daily Beast) 

Hope everyone is having a good week. September flew by and there's so much to update you all on. September truly is one of my favorite months- there's that back to school feeling (regardless of whether you're in school), the idea of starting anew, and of course, New York Fashion Week. Needless to say, September will always be the start of the new year for me. But back to fashion week. There's so much attention placed on the collections that  it can be difficult to put looks into context. 

I think Scott Schuman said it best, "shows aren't something that should make you feel bad about not being able to afford what you're seeing, or not looking like a model. Instead, they should just be pure inspiration for color, silhouette, genre, pattern matching..." When I attend a show and begin to think about it on a personal level, these are the things I consider. The collections are a means of getting inspired in the same way that literature, fine art, New York and ballet inspire me. 

Which brings me to another point- I miss the dying art of fashion criticism. There's something about reading an insightful review of a show. There's a piece of me that feels nostalgic for a review where the writer has had a chance to do a studio visit after the show. It's implausible to think that the majority of writers today are reviewing collections without having the chance to look at the construction up close and feel the clothes. True fashion criticism puts clothing into a larger context. A good review speaks to history, culture, the economy and mores of a society.

PS- We all know I adore a good fashion illustration and Jean-Philippe Delhomme's are simply divine. 

Happy Fashion Week!

Via The Coveteur

Happy Fashion Week, lovelies! Or shall I say Happy Fashion Month? My week was expectantly busy with lots of running around the city (in heels no less), but I wouldn't have it any other way. Seeing all of the hard work that goes into every aspect of a show makes me appreciate designer clothing even more. I kicked off New York Fashion Week at a fete in celebration of Aesop's Nolita store. More on this soon, but Aesop is a welcome addition to one of my favorite shopping districts. I can't think of a better way to spend the eve of Fashion Week. 

This image from Britt Aboutaleb's shoot for The Coveteur has been saved in my inspiration folder for months. I've been meaning to frame a few special Fashion Week and party invites for some time. The Coveteur provides endless inspiration, but I love how Britt framed the invites from her first season of Paris Fashion Week shows. At the time she was covering the collections for Teen Vogue and Fashionista and was unsure that this amazing opportunity would present itself again. I find this endearing in an age and industry where people feel so entitled. There's nothing more stylish than having grace. 

Grace is the tipping point for me. It's such an integral part of having style and yet in the midst of Fashion Week it's easily forgotten. When everyones' nerves are taxed it never hurts to be the girl with the welcoming smile or the person who takes things in stride. After all there's a whole team of people who pour everything they have into these shows. 

No Rest for the Weary...

Via Fashion Gone Rogue

This image of the stunning Liya Kebede sums up exactly how I'm feeling.

Truth be told Fashion Month has been exciting and exhausting with no rest for the weary. While the season commences in New York, it's not until the last of the collections wrap in Paris that we can begin to interpret what Fall 2011 is truly about. 

So far, I would say Fall 2011 is about coats, texture, unique color combinations, tricky proportions, mixing and matching prints and the return of opulence, but the Paris collections always have a way of changing the dialogue. Perhaps that's the benefit of showing after New York, London and Milan. The great show schedule debate ensues. At any rate, we'll know for sure on Wednesday. 

After a day of seeing runway shows, I like to end the day looking at the shows online with a cup of tea. It's the only way to make sense of the sensory overload and packed show schedule. It's also a quiet way to unwind after a long day. I'm always intrigued by the show notes and designer inspirations. 

Sigh... If you have to slouch, might as well do it elegantly right?