Style + Identity

Courtesy of Nothing Less Than Perfect Tumblr and Residence Magazine 

“It’s easy to feel like you’ve got nothing to wear, but it’s also a signal of identity problems. If you’ve got a well-developed sense of identity, you tend to know what’s you no matter what the trends. Nothing I buy ever looks new, because I have my look down, and it’s classic.” Anjelica Huston (Harper’s Bazaar, September 2006)

One of the most rewarding aspects of blogging is being reunited with a quote or photograph that you’ve long forgotten. Truthfully, I haven’t picked up an issue of Harper’s Bazaar in years, but the lovely Catssaymeow reminded me of the aforementioned quote. I rarely identify with celebrity style; (I simply don’t need to see something worn convincingly to be inspired), but this quote is dead on; with how I approach style.

It’s refreshing to be able to pull items blindly from my closet (in the wee hours of the morning no less), knowing that everything works seamlessly with one another and is intrinsically me. In my mind there’s no greater simplicity.  It’s interesting to see my choices become more resolute and precise with time. Even when I add new items to my wardrobe, they look like they’ve always belonged.

Hope you are all having a productive week. Tomorrow kicks off New York Fashion Week and I’m headed to the shows. No, “I have nothing to wear” moments here, I’m just going as myself.

Finding Neverland...

Via Park Street

When it comes to style, I truly admire those who maintain a sense of consistency. There's something refreshing about having such commitment to your style and point of view. It's what I love most about Audrey Hepburn's gamine chic look or Katherine Hepburn's tailored trousers. It's more about their devotion to their vision than any desire to embody these looks. 

I like to think that my style is consistent. This doesn't mean that I've stopped growing or developing my style, but I feel a sense of commitment to my look. I'm judicious when it comes to curating and editing my wardrobe. It's refreshing to hone my style and think about influences. It's always interesting to examine what we're drawn to. 

Via Vanessa Jackman

For quite sometime, I've been drawn to Peter Pan collars*. They're charming; coy; and a bit whimsical. The rounded collar instantly conjures up memories of the precocious Eloise**. It's interesting to trace something you love now to your childhood self.

As a discerning shopper, I've yet to find the perfect white cotton button-down with the aforementioned collar. As a lover of true craftsmanship, I can't help but admire the lace and varnished-leather collars at Louis Vuitton, even if I'm in search of something basic. The subtlety of the collar is the perfect detail to anchor a wardrobe of stunning skirts. 

So for now, the charming shirt is on my short list.

* I like a buttoned up shirt that takes inspiration from the rounded collar that comes to mind.

** I loved Eloise as a child- the adventures, The Plaza and the spying on adult happenings.

On Shopping: Mantras

Via Bergdorf Princess

If she can’t afford it, she won’t buy it. If it doesn’t fit (or make her feel good, or flaunt what she’s got), she won’t wear it. If she can’t find it, she won’t compromise. If she loves it, she won’t toss it. She reuses it, rethinks it, lets it age.

When a French girl shops, it isn’t a solitary act of buying something new. It’s part of a lifelong process of editing her environment, making small but meaningful additions to her home, her closet, her life.

When you shop like a French girl, you buy only one of anything – and make sure it’s the best quality you can afford.

From Entre Nous: A Woman's Guide to Finding Her Inner French Girl

A dear friend came across the above quotes while taking a reprieve from shopping at a bookstore. These quotes reminded her of my shopping mantras. Debra Ollivier's Entre Nous: A Woman's Guide to Finding Her Inner French Girl is not a book that appeals to me, but I'm constantly amazed that there are books that describe this approach to shopping. This is the way I have always shopped. 

From a young age, I learned not to sacrifice quality for quantity. A love for beautiful fabrics was passed down from mother to daughter. I value garments that are made of sumptuous fabrics that you want to wrap yourself in. There's something refreshing about stepping into your closet and wanting to wear something you cherish. I've found that when you find the perfect silhouette, colors, and fit all anyone notices is that you look great. Regardless of  whether you are wearing the same cardigan or scarf that has become your signature.

I don't have a closet full of unworn clothes because I only purchase items that will add depth to what I already own. I believe in INVESTING in my wardrobe. I buy well-made items and take excellent care of them. I'm judicious when it comes to wardrobe building. It's about selecting this, but not selecting that. More importantly it's about editing. It sounds pretentious, however it's a matter of not consuming idly. Building a wardrobe is a art.

As for my friend, she was convinced that she needed something to wear for a breakfast we were invited to. Granted this is not just any breakfast, but a breakfast and discussion on the disparities of urban achievement with Mayor Bloomberg. My friend always looks flawless. After reading these quotes she quickly realized that it was silly to buy something in haste when she has a closet full of appropriate outfits. If that isn't refreshing then I don't know what is. 

PS- I disagree about buying only one of anything. When I find wonderful basics (a pair of black pants or a white button down) that fit I'm willing to purchase more than one.

Lessons from the Boys

Courtesy of Wall Street Journal

I have a very dapper friend who I enjoy browsing for clothing with. It's truly refreshing to shop with a gentleman who appreciates a bespoke suit and understands the differences in cuffs. We usually split up. He goes to the men's department and I the women's. When we meet back, it's always amazing to see how many classic, timeless, well made and reasonably priced pieces he has found in comparison with the options for women. Who knew there was so much to be learned from the sophisticated male shopper?

I don't wear fast fashion. When I shop I'm looking for craftsmanship and a piece (I rarely purchase more than one item at a time) to enhance my wardrobe. This runs a bit countercurrent to the current trend of overtly trendy and disposable fashion. I prefer to own less, but better quality garments.  This is something my mom instilled in me from an early age. Needless to say, I am incredibly picky about what I buy. When I saw Christina Binkley's article "To Dress Well, A Woman Should Dress Like A Man" in The Wall Street Journal I knew I was onto something. I have reposted the article because I believe it provides a few helpful hints to keep in mind when shopping. 

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When it comes to shopping for fashion, women usually dominate, buying clothing for their men as well as themselves. But ladies, I have a gauntlet to throw down: Women have a lot to learn from the way men shop.

I first sensed this when menswear designer Thom Browne told me that he couldn't use a fabric unless it felt good "to the hand," because men won't buy uncomfortable clothing.

Come again? If comfort were the top criterion for selling womenswear, Jimmy Choo would be out of business. Unlike men, women frequently settle for garments that don't fit well and don't feel good.

Sometimes, women have little choice. It has long been an irritating truth that men are offered better-quality clothes for lower prices. Many fashionable women's clothes—including plenty sold at luxury prices—are made relatively cheaply. "Women do get shortchanged in the market," says Patrick Gigliotti, a menswear salesman at the venerable Boyd's Philadelphia department store. Some women who value well-made clothing have even resorted to shopping in menswear departments.

One reason for the quality difference is trendiness: Because womenswear is more faddish, there's a perception in the fashion industry that the clothes will be thrown away more quickly. Indeed, fast fashion has trained a generation to seek out throwaway styles.

Yet tailoring should matter. Women are always looking for clothes that will lift their bottoms and smooth their bulges. That's exactly the kind of magic that tailoring works. Luckily, with a little education about the way sophisticated men shop, it is possible to buy good-quality womenswear.

What does it mean to think like a man? Consider the way Jay Kos bought himself a pair of pants in New York last Sunday. Mr. Kos, himself a clothier and the owner of the Jay Kos store on Park Avenue, found a pair of olive wool pants at Soho's Blue in Green shop. But the pants had to pass a few tests before he took them to the dressing room. First, he felt the wool with his hand to ascertain its weight and softness. He checked the seams for clean stitching—no loose threads. In the dressing room, he squatted to be sure they fit comfortably. Only then did he step out to take a careful look in the store's biggest mirror and ask the salesman if the pants fit well.

This isn't the way most women shop. But it can be.

A first step is to put less focus on the brand. Logos don't guarantee fine craftsmanship. Dozens of luxury womenswear brands make high-quality fashions—Dolce & Gabbana and Akris among them. But I've found excellently sewn clothes at Zara (though not universally so). Some brands, like Ralph Lauren, have varying quality levels among a dizzying array of sub-brands. Akris offers well-made but lower-quality clothes under the "Akris punto" label. Rather than being blinded by branding, use it only as a starting point.

When you like a garment, grab the fabric and crunch it up—ignoring any gasps you hear from the womenswear sales staff, who are not accustomed to these maneuvers. If the cloth stays wrinkled or feels scratchy, consider moving on.

"You should start from the inside out," says Debi Greenberg, owner of Louis, a high-end store in Boston that caters to both men and women. Loose threads and ragged seams are signs of poor construction. Look for seams that have been carefully rolled and folded before being stitched down or have been "taped," or sewn over with a narrow strip of fabric.

In pants, the waistband is particularly important, as it provides structure and must hold up to sweat, pressure and twisting. In well-tailored pants, the waistband will have two layers of lining, with some structural seams in between. When it comes to pants, Ms. Greenberg recommends Proenza Schouler and Marni at the high end of the price range and Jil Sander for Uniqlo at the more affordable end.

A good jacket starts with a shoulder that permits comfortable movement and isn't so stuffed with foam padding that it looks awkward with the arm raised.

While you're peering inside the garment, check out the width of the fabric in the seams. Is there enough to allow the garment to be let out, if necessary? While good men's clothing is manufactured to be altered, women often have to buy a size larger and then cut the garment down—which can be more costly and difficult.

It's a good idea to ask where the garment—and sometimes the fabric—were manufactured. "Men love the story," says Mr. Kos. "If you're going to spend the money, then it should come come from a place with a respect for quality."

The country of origin can be an indicator of quality, and it's certainly a fair indicator of price. Italy, France and Japan are famous for their high manufacturing standards, but their prices are higher than those of lower-labor-cost nations.

Still, "made in Italy" is no guarantee, and it's possible to buy well-made clothes from many parts of the world. The 3.1 Phillip Lim brand makes some high-quality clothing in China with taped inner seams and alterable waistbands. J. Crew buys many quality shirting fabrics and cashmere yarns from Italian factories and then cuts and sews the clothes in less expensive countries.

Mr. Kos believes that garments and accessories that use a logo as the dominant design feature are more likely to take short cuts with materials or manufacturing.

Only after a garment has passed all these tests is it time to try it on. Be sure you can raise your arm in a shirt or jacket and that you can squat (without making the knees baggy) in pants. See if you can breathe easily. There should be no stretch marks across the torso and no gaping buttons.

When in doubt, remember what Mr. Gigliotti of Boyd's says about men's priorities: "Comfort is paramount."

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I'll never be a girl who exclusively shops the mens department and I would be lying if I said that comfort is paramount, however I am a firm believer in not settling when you shop. Perhaps part of the thrill is the hunt for the perfect garment.